Thursday 24 November 2016

Midlife Crisis in the Grand Canyon



Stop thinking about it and just GO” – me to my brain at 4:15am

I recently turned 40 but instead of buying a Porsche and dying my hair I decided to run across the Grand Canyon twice.  This pointless endeavor is known as the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim and is on the bucket list of many ultra-runners.

Pitch black, freezing cold and a billion stars

Starting on the South rim in the frozen desert night I turned on my lights and commenced the 5,000 foot descent to the Colorado River.  I chose the shorter, steeper mule route instead of the hiker friendly tourist trail.  Dodging puddles of mule pee for 2 hours made for a stomach-churning start to my journey.  I made it to the bottom of the Canyon and crossed the river, luckily avoiding a wile coyote attack half way down.


Where we’re going we don’t need roads

Running along the canyon floor as the warm sun slowly rose was amazing.  I could finally see the spectacular terrain and my hands started to thaw.  Most floors I know are flat but the Grand Canyon floor gains significant elevation Northbound.  Trying to run on 3 hours of sleep and on a critical caffeine deficit proved fruitless so I opted instead for a fast hike.


Hammer time for the hamstrings

Reaching the North wall of the canyon I knew it was going to hurt but this was only my first major ascent of the day.  Luckily living in North Vancouver provides significant opportunities to climb and descend steep mountain trails.  After 2 hours of slogging up canon switchbacks I reached the North rim.  Normal people celebrate their accomplishment then take the shuttle bus back to the other side.  Instead I ate my lunch in the snow then dropped back onto the icy trail to retrace my steps. 


Run Forest Run

My goals for the day were to avoid critical injury, finish before dark and have legs to run the second half.  This third objective meant being able to run the 10km switchback descent plus the 10km canyon floor.  Surprisingly I had both the energy and enthusiasm to pull this off, hopping over snakes, chasing deer and splashing through creeks.


Arizona death march

After 10 hours I crossed the Colorado River and started my ascent back up the South wall. 

My brain:  I should be able to cover 10km and 5,000 feet of ascent in 2 hours.”
My legs and stomach:  You’re crazy.  Now it’s time to punish you for putting us through this.”

Every step hurt, my water bottles were empty and the temperature dropped back down to freezing.  My GPS watch tormented me by mocking both my distance to go and my tortoise pace (25 minute miles!).  After 12 hours and 45 minutes I crested the South rim in the daylight and collapsed at the trail head.  Whether this was a celebration of turning 40 or self-inflicted torture I made it, enjoyed almost every step and didn’t get eaten by a mountain lion.